This guest post is by Viktoria Barna. This is Part 3 in a beautiful series of articles chronicling her experiences as a volunteer in a Nepalese orphanage and trekking through the Himalayas which gave her a new start in life. Read Part 1 Part 2
Everest Base Camp
We did an acclimatization trek to Everest View Hotel, which is the highest 5*Hotel. It was a 3.5 hours trek, elevation 350-400m. It could’ve been our first time to see Everest if it wasn’t cloudy. No luck.
After we got back to the teahouse I started to feel unwell. I lost my appetite and couldn’t eat dinner. The first sign of altitude sickness. ‘No!!! This can’t be happening to me!!’ I was screaming inside. Our guides Ram Krishna and Sujan made me eat a bowl of super strong garlic soup. Everyone was feeling sick now, because of the smell of my garlic soup.
They told me it was a difficult day, so I hopefully was going to feel better after some rest. The next day we did a 6 hour trek to Tengboche (3860m;12664 feet). One of the guys carried my bag from half way, because I was feeling weak. Everyone was really supportive and worried, of course. Our guides were great! They made me feel strong(er) and kept a good eye on me…and gave me more garlic soup?
There was a bakery, and my buddy ‘Sahara’ brought me back a muffin, which I couldn’t eat. That night I had a mouse running all the way up from my legs to my back. It made me jump like nothing ever before and the naughty one ate my muffin…all of it!
The next morning I felt better. I had proper breakfast. We went for the morning ceremony to the highest monastery on Everest region at 6.30am.
We did another 5-6 hour trek. The landscape was amazing! At about 4000m (13123 feet) the trees suddenly disappeared and rocky mountains took their places.
We spent two nights in Dingboche (4410m;14468 feet) where most of us felt pretty ill at arrival, but after a good night sleep we were ready for more adventure. I awoke myself by catching for breath a couple of times. There was 57% oxygen in the air at this point compared to the amount at sea level.
We did an acclimatization trek to Chukhung (4730m;15518 feet). It was getting more and more challenging. One of the girls was told to turn around, because she felt really bad, but she refused. She would not give up this close to our destination, even if she had to crawl to Base Camp.
We were in Lobuche (4910m;16109 feet) at this point. That day was really long and hard. Many steep climbs and the altitude made it really hard to breathe. We got to our last teahouse before the big day in Gorak Shep (5140m;16863).
We got up at 4am, and after a cup of hot lemon we were off to Everest Base Camp. It was a cloudless morning, with the white, snow capped mountains glowing in the dark, surrounding us, making us feel so tiny…and the full moon was shining above. It was breathtaking.
It was also a very difficult climb. Not only because of the altitude, but the rocky path made us watch every single step we took. The last half an hour we were walking on glaciers. Around 2pm we were sitting at Everest Base Camp (5364m;17598 feet), watching four of our crazy boys change into their pink ladies underwear, and light a cigar…what a sight!
It was a good feeling, but to be honest, I was a little bit disappointed. I imagined Base Camp being at the foothill of Everest, and from Base Camp to Base 1 one has to climb up a glacier, which is what we saw. Everest was high above it, and all we could see was like a piece of a Toblerone chocolate.
But someone once said, it’s not the destination that makes a journey special, it’s the journey itself. How very true.
On the way down I threw up. We were all feeling rough and at this point, every single one of us hated Everest. It was now time to finish the other half of the journey, and walk back to Lukla. We were playing cards most of the afternoons, visited some lovely villages, ate delicious pastries in a bakery, danced to our Nepalese porter’s songs.
At one teahouse the walls were so thin, that me and ‘Sahara’ could hear the guys next to us chat, so we joined in…and Dan in the room next to theirs joined us too. The walls in the teahouses all along the journey were so thin, I could hear the person sleeping in the room next to mine breathe.
We were chased by some beautiful beasts called yaks, which was quiet scary due to their sizes. They’re such cool animals though.
Our guides and porters bought some chickens, which we killed and plucked and ate. It was their way of ending our adventures in Everest region. Food, drinks, singing Nepalese songs and some dancing. What else could’ve we wished for?
At the end of our trek we had a good night out, which ended with a hole in the dance floor and some very sore heads the next morning.
If you wonder why I don’t show any pictures of the trek…well, in a moment of blondness, I managed to format my memory card in my camera on the way back. I stopped beating myself up for it.
Once we were back in Kathmandu, we rented some bicycles and explored the town. It was very similar to a play station game, but here we only had one life and luckily we all made it?
This story continues tomorrow as Viktoria tackles the Annapurna Circuit Trek.
To follow up on this inspirational volunteer story please connect with Viktoria Barna on Facebook
Credits for the images in this article about voluntary work in Nepal and getting fit for trekking in the Himalayas belong to Viktoria Barna. To view more of Viktoria’s images visit everest base camp | orphanage | annapurna circuit trek
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